a foodie in his element: A winemaker’s dream

Valle de Uco, approximately 70km south of Mendoza, Argentina. 35^oC and still well over a month before the summer. On an early Friday afternoon I’m standing on the side of the road trying to shelter in the shadow of a transition pole. I’m waiting for the director of Bodegas Rolland to pick me up for a tour. These few minutes there taught me a quick lesson on what the sun is capable of here. I’m very glad to see my saviour as by now a good part of water has already evaporated from me.

As we travel further 40 km south and 200m up I notice how the temperature gradually drops to finally reach a “cool” 25 degrees at nearly 1100 above the sea level. Great diurnal temperature variations and high altitude are a norm here, which is exactly what the vines need to yield superb quality fruit.

As we reach our destination near Vista Flores, a colonial-style gateway welcomes us to Clos de los Siete - an area of 850ha operated by a group of French investors . Each of them makes wine under own brand name, and also they jointly provide grapes for the making of Clos de los Siete label.

Mariflor is the name of Michel Rolland’s vineyard. It spreads across 67ha and is destined only for top quality wines made into 4 labels.

We are driving directly towards the Andes through the endless stretch of vineyards which seem to stop only because of them. The contrast of the vineyard bordering with semi-desert land is extraordinary. Due to the scarcity of rain, a precise irrigation system feeds water to the vineyards from several deep water wells.

The winery building is a cuboid that looks as if it has risen from the ground on which it stands. The architect made sure it harmoniously blended into the breathtaking landscape and its colours. No embellishments, just perfectly square walls. The inside is equally simple. The most sophisticated technology controlled by a click of a button in a black and white scenario. Few other colours that sometimes stand out are those of emergency exit lights, machinery pushbuttons and barrels. 54 ten-thousand-litre bare concrete vats are lined up in rows like soldiers armed with stainless steel door, valves and piping. Striking, perhaps unexpected for a tourist but otherwise a perfect working environment designed for winemakers. Utilitarianism in the service of winemaking. Some of the tricks of the trade include micro-winemaking in barrels for reds and use of egg-shaped concrete vats for making whites.

All process takes place on the same level, no stairways, hardly any ramp, just doors or gates separating different areas. No need even for underground cellars thanks to the good thermal insulation of the building. The barrel aging room is very spacious, dim and cool with high ceiling, lit with big chandeliers. It reminds me somehow of a feasting hall – no wonder with all the stock.

Well, bring in a white-clothed table!

Amidst hundreds of French hogsheads I’m led from section to section to taste different samples – I even got the table – a trolley to be precise, which was more practical.

Already bottled Sauvignon Blanc 2011 was very complex and aromatic with notes of freshly cut grass, nettle, as well as floral and citrus with hints of vanilla. Well balanced acidity with medium body and long persistence. Very memorable.

The three reds that followed were still doing their due time in barrels, and then will need some more in bottles before released to market but already reveal excellent potential.

Full-bodied and very persistent Malbec 2010 with sweet tannins. Pinot Noir 2010, this delicate grape is made into quite powerful wine here. Finally the blend for Clos de Los Siete label, outstanding nose and velvety palate, opening up slowly and bursting with complexity. Definitely worth waiting for.

If a winemaker’s dream makes consumers’ dreams come true, let them have it.