In Ghent’s fair city

A chilly winter morning. I walk down the picturesque streets of still drowsy and in general very quiet town of Ghent, passing by fairylike canals, period houses, churches, squares, small shops and cafes. After several twists and turns, the cobbled streets bring me to a beautiful Kouter Square which on every Sunday morning holds a traditional flower market, an activity, for tourists and locals alike. 

Nice pastime amongst tulips, orchids, and dozens or so other plants and flowers. This square has always been a venue for different events including meetings, fairs, tournaments, parades, even a visit of Napoleon Bonaparte.

That’s not the only reason to go there though. A local custom is to have oysters and cava on this very market, which makes a short break for flower enthusiasts, and is a real magnet for strollers wandering without particular destination who discover this place like a long missed Ithaca.

It’s an outdoor spot. A few white umbrella-covered high tables, no chairs, and a tiny kiosk operated by two or three shuckers serving fresh oysters  by plate and cava by glass or bottle. The first thing stroke me was that winter is actually the best time to enjoy this little treat, as the temperature is perfect for both cava and oysters. It keeps them at the right temperature at all times, no ice needed and no haste to finish them. That’s right, proper refrigeration is the key to having oysters all year round, even during the months with R’s, contrary to the popular belief.

Here, they are served on a white plate, by six, with a slice of lemon, sprinkled with pepper and a couple of slices of brown bread. Deliciously looking combination - a palate-pounder. High tulip glass and the half shells arranged on a white plate that resemble pirouetting ballerinas. Time to marry them finally. Fresh marine flavours slightly softened by lemon juice and with tenderness of the flesh that almost melts in the mouth. The cava is a great refresher, the bubbles and citrus zestiness balances the oysters in a marvellous way, washing the mouth and getting it ready for the next one.

Belgium has a long tradition of seafood cuisine and they do enjoy it so you can be sure that you get good stuff there. You not only forget about the cold but also get to warm up your heart and lift up your spirits. It certainly gives enough energy to continue the stroll, perhaps to the next food related destination.

How about a waffle then?